The South cirque up Djebel Toubkal begins behind the refuge. Looks deceptively easy. Wait till you see it up close....
After breakfast, I joined the 7am wave of hikers going up Djebel Toubkal. There were 9 of us. The Polish tandem made a mistake of cutting up the first scree too early causing rocks to tumble just in front of me. I gave the warning shout and everyone stood still for a moment. Thankfully, I found the correct path and led the pack of eager hikers for the first hour. It was amazing how quickly we found ourselves 200m above the refuge.
I think the first 300 meters is the most confusing part of the ascent. After that, it's a non-technical hike involving basic scrambling, scree running, and strenous walking over jagged rocks (especially the last 200m). I decided to be left behind at the col to walk in solitude while enjoying the crystal clear silence that one only finds in such isolated places. Your worst worry, apart from spraining your ankles from all those loose rock, is minor altitude sickness.
By 9am, I met the 4am wave of hikers, the ones who wanted to catch the sun rise, on their way down. I reached the peak at 11:30am and stayed till 1am. It was such a clear day and the 360 degree vista on Djebel Toubkal is simply stunning - the Sahara on one side and the Atlantic coast on the other side. In between, other impressive, although shorter, mountains. (And there is nothing more childishly amusing than exposing your pecker and peeing over the edge of a ridge 300m high. Tabi-tabi po)
I wanted to bag another peak but on my way down a Berber guide for a middle-aged couple convinced me to go scree running with them. This was fun except for the fact that I was the only one without trekking poles. I was going down at breakneck speed, falling on my back four times, while conquering my irrational fear of heights. The slope was a moderate 75 degrees at most and it was exhilarating.
When I reached the end of the slope I realised I veered too far off course from the starting ascent for one of the minor peaks. Oh, maybe next time.
I'm tempted to gloat a bit about the fact that for the entire day I only ate 2 Mars bars (at least this junk has some use after all) and gulped less than a litre of water but, I kid you not, there was a Berber teenager who caught up with me on the final col and he was not carrying any provisions, no water, no food, (not because of Ramadan, but because he simply can), and was wearing jeans and soft rubber shoes. To add to this despicable display of mountaineering, for the final ascent, he casually chose the left scree slope which was very steep, slippery, and fucking dangerous.
I shouldn't really say much about how it feels to be up a mountain. You just have to go up one yourself and find out.
Back at the refuge, there were high fives all around as the natives didn't think I would make the return journey. I met the Berber teenager and exchanged good natured jibes. What took you so long? It took me two hours to go up then down! I told him I did touristy stuff (I did take 900+ pictures) and I threatened I will come back in winter, minus my pregnant belly, to race him up the summit in the middle of a blizzard. He suggested a bet of 5000 dirhams and as a handicap, he will take the difficult north cirque while I retrace the patsy south cirque. I told him no such thing will be necessary and to sweeten the pot, I will also do the north cirque but barefoot. Everyone knew, including the mules, that I didn't stand a chance.
I was then christened a fearsome monicker by the Berbers. I was expecting something like "The Baby Faced Beast of Baguio", or "Nash the Flash", or "Pretty Boy Bato", but noooooo, I was simply referred to as "Le Philippin". Not "El Guapo Filipino" or "The Sexiest Filipino who ever Graced the High Atlas", but just "Le Philippin". It resonated un-inspiringly like a dope runner or hustler. (General aliases such as 'The Italian', 'The Russian', etc - they're only used to refer to the bad guy who gets snuffed by the lead guy in the middle of a film.)
Later that night, the refuge was overrun by pretty French hikers. To save on the day's remaining ration of hot water, I was forced to share a hot bath with two girls from Nice. Wait, that really didn't happen - it was an altitude induced hallucination. OR WAS IT? Those gardiens spiked my mint tea again.....
Presenting: The Dummies Guide up Djebel Toubkal Step by Step
The first 200m ascent.......
....up close..
The boulder slope...
Cut deep to the left of the slope left........
Steep but quite easy.......
at 3450m you basically lose sight of the refuge...
HRO Karl Willem and PA/PR Gromit. Fearless is their middle name...
I love bouldering. Those early morning tv-yoga classes paid off as I easily scramble up boulders as big as houses.
The right wall...
Peak a boo. The sun pierces the south slope.
Narcissistic moment. Stopping to admire my svelte silhouette.
Rock, loose rock....
This is an alternative path up the summit. It's not a switchback route over scree, it just goes straight up. Only for those with a very good sense of balance.
The steep south slope
The suggested path is that one on the left of the picture, but you can cut straight across like I did to save you 20 minutes. Don't look back while going up though as it is a 60+ degree slope and you could lose your balance, tumble down, cry, and have to start all over again.
One of the mini-peaks of the massif. My only regret is not climbing it!
Soon you reach the ridge...
HRO Karl Willem and PA/PR Gromit at 3900m. What us worry?
Tazaghart, 3843m. This is a very interesting mountain. That summit is so flat and wide that apparently an airplane can land and take off from it. Absolutely on my next-to-do list.
The peak of Djebel Toubkal...almost there....
...just follow the ridge (stay on the left though...)
....nearly there.....
The last 100m cuts across loose and very very sharp rocks....
and it's also very narrow.....I suggest leaning towards the ridge as the wind can be very strong..
HRO Karl Willem and PA/PR Gromit - the first recorded ascent of the Maghreb's and North Africa's Highest Peak by furry and cute animals. Mt. Kilimanjaro, you are next on our list.
Looking south to the heart of Africa....
Looking north east to Algeria......
HRO Karl Willem and PA/PR Gromit. Did I say Fearless is their Middle Name?
You can do some scary stuff on the peak....
HRO Karl Willem and PA/PR Gromit with the beginning of the Sahara behind them..
Cooling down after a long and exciting day. The water is really cold but that did not stop climbers from taking a refreshing shower au naturelle.
It's like prison, but the food in the Refuge is ok. Tonight the gardiens cooked pasta...