Morning, my room lit by glorious sunshine through the stained glass panes.
I did not realise how close I was to a Mosque until the 3am call to prayer which felt as if the siren was just behind my headboard. (The riad was in the area of the Ben Youssef Mosque.) Yet, when the muezzin started to sing a passage from the Koran, it was very very good. I guess you need to be top of the pops to be a muezzin in Marrakech. My Arabic is bad but there is no denying what a beautiful voice the muezzin had. It wasn't a lullaby but the singing had a very comforting effect and I was gently lulled back to sleep.
Today, His Royal Orangeness Karl Willem, PA/PR Gromit, and The Nashman were off to the mystical fort city of Essaouira but our magic carpet didn't leave till half past three so HRO Karl Willem decided that we should visit another grand riad - La Maison Arabe. It had its own hammam, a very cool courtyard, and a couple of grand salons where we could laze about. HRO Karl Willem was pampered from head to foot.
HRO Karl Willem wakes up very early every day because he enjoys walking in the morning. Today he went around the souks, greeting the traders and the locals.
It's not everyday that I get to have breakfast under such beautiful architectural motifs.
Breakfast. Those thin pancakes are superb topped with local honey.
You'd think such a dark and dodgy alleyway wouldn't have much to offer..but that's the allure of the Medina. If you know the magic words, knock three times, you'll find yourself welcomed inside some of the most amazing homes.
HRO Karl Willem arrives in La Maison Arabe and is quickly offered mint tea and Moroccan biscuits.
It's an oasis of calm. Two birds cooling themselves in the courtyard. I gave them some of my crumbs.
We apologise for not observing Ramadan but Moroccan cuisine is just delicious. The Nashman did abstain from sex (actually, 4 years ago and counting!), drugs, and rock and roll. But, being foodies, we cannot abstain from tasting the local delicacies. HRO Karl Willem peruses the special menu. And we were barely halfway through our mint tea!
HRO Karl Willem was given a personal tour of the Maison Arabe's salons.
HRO Karl Willem given the 'red' carpet treatment.
While HRO Karl Willem was attended to by the very friendly staff, The Nashman relaxed by reading one of the books from the maison's library. The Hotel Manager actually wanted The Nashman to keep the book, but The Nashman decided it better to share the knowledge and signed the book. In 5 years time when The Nashman becomes unbelievably famous, this book will be worth lots on ebay.
Main course for lunch which lasted till half past two in the afternoon.
It was otherworldly. You cross the dry desert for two hours then suddenly the temperature drops, the fog is very thick, there are conifers, eerie silence broken only by waves crashing on the rocky coastline, and then you are faced by a big ass wall. It's the coastal fort city of Essaouira. And, once you enter the city through the main gate, only then will you realise why this is the favourite city of many a rock legend.
A shoving fight erupts in the main avenue. A friendly quarrel no doubt and a very interesting welcome present for The Nashman.
Oh, it's also a well-known secret that apart from the blues and jazz, art galleries, and lax attitude to ganja, Essaouira is a surfing hotspot.
The small and confusing alleyways make navigating very difficult even for The Nashman the first time around. Fortunately, I have a secret weapon - my acute sense of smell. At the port, you can gobble up some of the day's catch. Just make your piscine fancy known to the fisherman and they will grill it for you. Yes, no fancy extras. Just plain ol' grilling.
This is what was left of dinner. There were two big fishes whose names I forgot, some shrimps, some calamare, some lobster-looking thingies, lemon wedges, onions, and tomatoes. Not only had I the biggest stomach that night, but also the biggest smile in the whole of Northern Africa.
After dinner, coffee at the terrace of Cafe Bab Laachour. It was cold, but it felt good to be outside enveloped by the fog.
The view from my room that night.